Media Trends: Nicola Sturgeon, Sam Smith, Death of Lilt, Pharrell x Louis Vuitton & More!
The End of Scottish Independence? | Pharrell's Fashion Takeover | Sam Smith's Bold Brits Outfit | Social Media Activists Crash Fashion Conference | Death of Lilt
Shock resignation of Nicola Sturgeon sends SNP into tailspin
The sudden resignation of Nicola Sturgeon, one of the most imposing political figures in recent UK history and a monopolistic figurehead in Scotland for nearly a decade, has sent ripples throughout media and social media around the country and beyond.
Divisive as any leader on one side of an issue as tribal as Scottish independence would be, Sturgeon was objectively one of the most effective political communicators of the era (albeit latterly she was playing with the net down in her clashes with successive shambolic Westminster operations).
But UK society is so polarised that this objective assessment will not be enough to secure a positive legacy for someone half of Scotland and probably three quarters of the UK hate. As Sturgeon will have learned from her predecessor and one-time mentor Alec Salmond, a legacy can go up in smoke even after a career is long-over.
And the quantity and ferocity of Sturgeon's political enemies mean that the post-mortem of her premiership with be thorough and gory. From her links to the Salmond scandal, the increasingly directionless future of the independence movement, the foolhardy entry into the culture wars via the Gender Recognition Reform bill (the complex permutations of which reduced Sturgeon in multiple interviews to a gibbering Boris impersonation), and her party's various insubstantial or ineffective policy decisions while in government, knives are being sharpened for the battle for Sturgeon's legacy.
If Sturgeon faces a challenge, it's nothing to that looming for the SNP. Sturgeon's resignation could end up as nothing short of an auto-decapitation for the party. The candidates for leadership are at first glance a miserable bunch; tired elder statespeople, lightweight careerist opportunist, divisive demagogues and the odd downright weirdo. If that's the second best the SNP have to offer then their dominance of Scottish politics, particularly in the face of a sophisticated and unforgiving electorate, could be consigned to the history books.
Louis Vuitton splits the fashion world at the seams
This week, Louis Vuitton announced the appointment of Pharrell Williams as its new creative director for men's wear in a move which has divided the fashion world. On the one hand, the American rapper and producer has long woven between the parallel worlds of music and fashion. Not only has he worked on and off for LV since 2004, he was the first male ambassador for Chanel and more recently has entered into various collaborations with Tiffany and other brands under LVMH's umbrella. During the January men's wear shows in Paris, he seldom had his pair of diamond Tiffany sunglasses. Pharrell is clearly a creative behemoth, so who best to curate men's style going forward?
Nevertheless, many have questioned the decision to appoint a multi-hyphenate celebrity as opposed to championing new talent. Pharrell's predecessor, the late Virgil Abloh, was a comparatively unknown figure who worked his way up through his own high-end streetwear brand Off-White before landing the top job in 2018. By comparison, Pharrell is a global megastar whose fashion creds only played a minor role in his rise up the ranks. So why not platform an up-and-coming, actual designer instead?Â
Critics also fear that Pharell's LV will be less a progression of the monogrammed classics and more a rotation of high-profile collabs. These inevitably deliver a sugar-high hype before quickly dropping out of style when the next hit comes around. It all raises questions about where luxury fashion is going. Consumers are constantly told to avoid fast fashion and 'invest' in luxury that will 'last a lifetime', but who can really justify spending two grand on a coat if it can only be worn for a few quick Insta snaps before the fashion house renders it dowdy one season later?Â
But what do we know? MSCHF's $350 Big Red Boots were never going to be an investment piece, but that hasn't stopped them selling out and flooding the world's feeds? Buzz still sells, so why shouldn't LV cash in?
Sam Smith's bold fashion choices ignite controversy
It's been a busy few months for Sam Smith, kicking up controversy after they made a bold fashion statement at the Brits for wearing a custom-made latex outfit with inflatable arms and legs styled with platform boots.
The outfit went viral on social media, outrivalling Harry Styles' velvet suit, which featured a giant organza flower. The instant memefication signals the iconography of the look, whilst others mocked the outfit and criticised the star for 'attention-seeking' behaviour.
Despite speaking publicly about their battle with body confidence and reluctance to pose for photos throughout their career, many trolled Smith including one video of the look set to Squidward's walk from SpongeBob SquarePants'.
But fashion aficionados were quick to point out the resemblance to David Bowie's 1973 wide-leg vinyl jumpsuit, which he wore during his Stardust tour, a celebrity who also garnered much publicity and controversy as he leaned into the contradictions he embodied in his expression of gender and sexuality.
Sam's artistic choices have previously come under fire and were under the spotlight after the release of the 'I'm Not Here to Make Friends' music video which some claimed to be pornographic for its 'sexual nature'. Stepping onto the Brits stage wearing a red hat with horns and dancers performing in metal cages, their performance with Kim Petras received more than 100 Ofcom complaints, with some accusations filed as performing a 'Satanic ritual'.
The singer has become a target of more scrutiny than ever before. Despite body-positive sensibility becoming commonplace in modern music, many celebrated artists such as Rihanna with her 2011 S&M music video or Miley Circus' 2013 Wrecking Ball, have secured their places in the history books by refusing to listen to online hate and critics of their music. So last week at the Grammy's, it was fitting for Madonna, a star who has constantly innovated and continues to push boundaries, to introduce Smith to the stage.
She commented on the controversy, "Here's what I've learned after four decades in music. "If they call you shocking, scandalous, troublesome, problematic, provocative or dangerous, you are definitely onto something".Â
BooHoo's ethical faux pas
In case you missed the fashion set strutting their stuff at Southwark Cathedral this week in memory of the late Viviene Westwood, London Fashion Week is upon us again. And whilst it's the high end designers who tend to bag the headlines, the cheap (and ethically less cheerful) brands are also working on snagging their moment in the spotlight, with fashion retailer BooHoo dominating a panel on ethical sourcing practices at the Source Fashion conference.
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Even the least fashion fluent amongst us might wince at that last sentence – the fast fashion brand has been garnering much criticism of late for everything from poor treatment of workers to Kardashian powered greenwashing.
In a move that BooHoo and Source Fashion probably should have seen coming a mile off, the event was crashed by a group of plummy-accented social media activists, led by self-styled "fair fashion campaigner" and TikTok-er Venetia La Manna.
When the floor was (spectacularly naively) opened up for questions, the protesters piped up in what one social media commentor vividly described as a "whack a mole" technique, shouting about BooHoo's various transgressions and overall hypocrisy. As one was escorted away by security, another irate Gen Z-er would pop up to take her place.Â
Perhaps it is easy to poo poo this sort of action as "activist lite," or even snigger at the perhaps melodramatic "hope you are all safe!" comments under Venetia's video. But really, the fact that an event of such poorly veiled PR was allowed to take place is appalling. The protest might not be original or edgy, however the headache it caused its organisers was certainly deserved. And maybe us armchair critics just wish we had the youthful belief and energy to join in.Â
End of an era as Coca Cola ditches Lilt
This week, news broke out of nowhere that Coca Cola is taking a callous decision to axe the once popular Lilt, changing it to Fanta Pineapple & Grapefruit. The decision has sparked controversy among fans of the iconic soft drink brand, causing much disappointment.
As a former Lilt drinker, I fondly look back at Lilt's glory days but must admit, the drink has been becoming more and more irrelevant. For Coca Cola, it was a necessary move to stay competitive in the cut-throat soft drink market, where shelf space is limited.
According to data from YouGov's BrandIndex tool, Lilt's brand health has stagnated for over a decade and has failed to keep up with Coca-Cola's other drinks brands. In contrast, Fanta's value is worth 17 times more than Lilt's, and Fanta scored higher on all key measures, such as awareness, consumer impression, quality perceptions, consideration, and purchase intent.
Soft drink brands rely on engaging with a youthful audience for success, and Lilt's association with an older generation hindered remaining current. Rebranding can test if a brand can reconnect with consumers under a different name. The recent viral launch of PRIME by famous YouTubers Logan Paul and KSI demonstrates how brands innovate to capture young consumers' attention.
In a crowded market, brands must keep evolving to stay relevant, and Lilt's rebranding is a testament to this reality. It remains to be seen if the move can help the brand appeal to a new generation of consumers, but the power of a brand's name and branding is crucial, and refreshing its look can help it maintain its connection with the target audience.